Pages

Monday, May 2, 2011

Exmouth


The Easter Bunny brought an extra special treat this year…five days of no work. Good Friday and Easter Monday are Public Holidays and with Easter falling a bit later this year, it happened to coincide with ANZAC day on Tuesday. ANZAC stands for Australia and New Zealand Army Corp and ANZAC day is a day to remember and honor war veterans.

With five days off work and schools on break, travel accommodations were in high demand. Eventually we found availability at the Ningaloo Caravan and Holiday Resort in Exmouth. The only availability was in the dog park. For once, travelling with a dog had its advantages.

Shane and I last visited Exmouth in August 2009 and I wrote about it in A Winter Holiday. Exmouth (pop. 2,500) is a 13 hour drive north of Perth on the NW Cape Peninsula with the Exmouth Gulf to the east and the Ningaloo Reef to the west - a 260km reef and the longest fringing reef in the world.

Aside from its access to the Ningaloo Reef, Exmouth is most famous for migrating Whale Sharks between the months of April and August. For $370, various tour operators will take you on a full-day Whale Shark experience. Several kilometers out to sea, their helicopters spot the Whale Sharks and you get in and swim with these gentle giants. Some day, when we leave Bronson at home or with the local kennel we’ll experience it for ourselves as those who’ve done it say the experience is priceless. To view a brief video click here .

It’s hard to believe that the American flag once flew proud in this remote Australian town. Exmouth was established as a town in the 1960’s when the US and Australian governments agreed to establish a Naval communications station. Even before then it was a US Naval submarine base during World War II and was bombed by the Japanese in 1942 then abandoned three years later after a cyclone.

We left Perth at 4pm on Thursday. By 10pm I was tired and by midnight I was very tired and at 1am we stopped to sleep. Driving in the dark comes with risks, and fatigue is the least of them. How it came about I’m not sure, but this part of the country has an abundance of wild goats and shortly past midnight, we hit one. When we stopped less than an hour later I was reminded of the fact that my cute cuddly dog is an animal guided by instinct and curiosity as he licked goat blood off the side of the boat trailer. I suppose, another advantage of taking Bronson with us…road kill removal.

While in Exmouth we caught enough fish both days for a generous dinner of coral trout, sweet lip, and a large cray fish kindly donated by fellow fisherman. The winds this time of year were calm enough for us to go a few kilometers out to sea without much complaining from me. And when not fishing, we’d jump in for a swim and a snorkel in the warm waters of the reef.


Emu

termite mound

wild goats and sheep

Kangaroo

sand crab

a peaceful Exmouth Gulf

Captain Bronson


little fish jumping from big fish at sunset

Exmouth Gulf sunset

fishing on the Ningaloo Reef

Indian Ocean sunset
more photos at Flickr

Tuesday, April 19, 2011

Flickr

For when blogger just doesn't cut it when sharing photos...I now have Flickr.

I've christened my Flickr account with some photos taken on Woody Island in Esperance and a video of Shane skiing in Bunbury over Christmas.

www.flickr.com/photos/lindsaymb

Wednesday, April 6, 2011

Good Read: Batavia


There are some things, quite confidently, Americans know about Australia. It has a city named Sydney, its native wildlife includes strange animals like Kangaroos and Koalas, and it’s down under – somewhere.

There is one other well-known fact about Australia – which many of us are taught during our school days– and that is the history of the first British settlers who exported convicts to Australia. My husband’s paternal grandfather was brought to this country from England as a wee baby. His mother was an unwed mom so her family put her and her newborn son on a ship to Australia with the rest of the convicts and misfits. In Sydney, she met her husband whose family name determined the fate of Shane’s family name, and more recently mine. But this is a story for another time.

The book Batavia is not about the British settlers. What many people don’t know is that the first Europeans to set foot on Australia were not British but the Dutch, who discovered and mapped what is today the coast of Western Australia, two hundred years before the British discovered Australia’s East Coast.

It was the lucrative spice trade that brought Dutch sailors to this part of the world. Their twelve month journey which originated in Amsterdam would take them all the way around Africa, past India and conclude in what is now present day Jakarta, Indonesia.

Eventually, a more adventurous captain discovered that if he headed directly east from the southern tip of Africa, taking advantage of the “roaring forties” all the way to what is essentially Perth and up the coast of Australia then three months was shaved off the journey. Hence, the Zuidland (southland) was discovered. With a dangerous coastline of islands and coral reefs, an apparently barren and waterless mainland, and no obvious civilization to dominate, the Zuidland was ignored.

But, in 1629, the Dutch East India Company (the first company with a system of shares and investors) set sail on its’ maiden voyage their most glorious ship, the Batavia, filled with over 300 men, women and children and some of the company’s most precious jewels and coins. On the final leg of the journey the Batavia met its fate on the Abrolhos islands, off the coast of what is today the town of Geraldton, 450 kms or five hours north of Perth.

This disaster was only the beginning of what the book’s author, Peter Fitzsimons, describes as an “adults-only version of Lord of the Flies meets Nightmare on Elm Street.” What makes this amazing and true story even more fascinating is that it was not until the 1960’s that the wreck was discovered and human bones and artifacts were found on the islands. Today the Abrolhos remain a quiet group of 122 islands and atolls, occupied mostly by Cray fisherman with very little accommodation and tourism. Read a bit about the islands today and watch a short video here.

I was bemused (and amused) that Fitzsimons opens his book with a quote from fellow Missourian Mark Twain, written in the year 1897. Twain’s quote reads as follows:

“Australian history is almost always picturesque; indeed, it is also so curious and strange, that it is itself the chiefest novelty the country has to offer and so it pushes the other novelties into second and third place. It does not read like history, but like the most beautiful lies; and all of a fresh new sort, no mouldy old stale ones. It is full of surprises and adventures, the incongruities, and contradictions, and incredibilities; but they are all true, they all happened”

Whether or not Twain knew anything of the Batavia, his sentiments echo the heart of this story. I highly recommend this book no matter where you live. As it was only recently launched in Australia, it has yet to be published overseas but the book’s publisher assures me it will be published in the US, UK, and Singapore to name a few. If you are doing the e book thing, then it can be purchased through Amazon. Otherwise, coming soon to a Borders near you.  Errr, maybe not Borders.

Thursday, March 31, 2011

Steep Point


Shane abandoned Bronson and I for four days to forage for fish with five other blokes.  Although I was jealous that he went on holiday while I was stuck home working and vacuuming, I'm not sure I would have enjoyed the destination.

Steep Point is at Shark Bay where Shane and I holidayed last year.  There is no fresh water, no plumbing, no services (I mean no services), and lots of flies...so I've been told, and it's accessible only by a 180 kilometre gravel road.  The only thing to do at Steep Point is fish and drink piss.  Not that I don't enjoy either of those activities but in a more modern setting.

The prized catches were a 14 kilo Yellowfin Tuna and a 16 kilo Mackrel, both caught by Scott.  Although Shane didn't break any fishing records we now have a freezer filled with fish.  I've reaped the reward of their efforts from the comfort of my home and its modern amenities.



Scott and his 16 kilo Mackrel
14 kilo Yellowfin Tuna

Red Throat Snapper
Hmmm, I don't see any flies in those photos.  I'm thinking it's just a ploy to keep the ladies away.

Friday, March 4, 2011

Esperance


Lucky Bay, Cape Le Grand National Park, Esperance

Following our recent visit to The Great Southern, we continued eastward to Esperance to complete our exploration of WA’s south coast - or at least the inhabited portion of it. It’s a five hour drive from Albany to Esperance although we took a slightly amended trip to drive through the Stirling Ranges just north of Albany.

The town of Esperance (population 15,000) is the final frontier of WA. Only overseas tourists and “grey nomads” who take several months or a year to drive around Australia explore the roads east of Esperance. From Esperance it’s 24 hours until you reach Adelaide, South Australia, the next major (or even mentionable) population centre.

Esperance is best known for its white sand beaches. Lucky Bay, in Cape Le Grand National Park, was deemed Australia’s whitest beach by the National Committee on Soil and Terrain - but it didn’t come without some fuss from those Queenslanders on the Great Barrier Reef. White sand beaches - it’s a competitive business here in Australia. Instead of taking the sophisticated 40 minute drive from Esperance to Lucky Bay we opted for the shorter and more scenic route driving on the beach. In other more accessible parts of the world, such amazing beaches would be swarming with people but we saw very few.

Another pride of Esperance is the Recherché Archipelago - 105 islands and 1500 islets and the largest group of islands in southern Australia. We took a half day boat cruise through the islands to view Eagles, Sea Lions and Seals, and apparently Penguins but it must have been the wrong time of year because we didn’t see any. The tour, hosted by Mackenzie's Island Cruises, took us to Woody Island, one of the largest islands in the Archipelago.

In 1976, the owner of Woody Island was out fishing with his Labrador Twiggy. Twiggy disappeared overboard and by the time her owner realized she was gone, she was nowhere to be found. The conditions were bad, and taking his own safety into consideration, he was in no position to go looking for her. Fast forward three months and his business partner is on Woody island and spots what appears to be a dingo although no dingoes lived on the island. After coaxing a skinny and skittish Twiggy with large amounts of food she returned to Esperance to live with her owner for another 4 years. She swam 3 kilometers in the shark infested harsh conditions of the Southern Ocean and then survived on Woody Island for three months on lizards and birds eggs. Today stands Twiggy’s Landing in memory of Twiggy’s plight.

The 8 hour drive from Esperance back to Perth is long and boring and after awhile, even the beautiful countryside becomes dreary. If you can’t survive on roadhouse meat pies and chips then stock your car with alternative options. Don’t expect a KFC or even a McDonalds along the way.

Fortunately, we had Wave Rock to entertain us half way into our journey – a two billion year old wave shaped granite formation standing 15 meters tall and 100 meters wide. We saw it…we even surfed it…and then we ate meat pies and continued on our way…

Recherche Archipelago

Recherche Archipelago

Recherche Archipelago


Woody Island, Recherche Archipelago

Woody Island, Recherche Archipelago

Esperance

Esperance

Sunset, Esperance Wind Farm

Great Ocean Drive, Esperance

Wave Rock

driving home


Monday, February 28, 2011

The Great Southern


Valley of the Giants - Walpole-Nornalup National Park

Flanked by ancient forests to the west, the Stirling ranges to the north, the Southern Ocean to the south, and the empty coastline of the Great Australian Bight to the east is The Great Southern region of Western Australia.

With the town of Albany as our base, we recently spent three days exploring The Great Southern. I was surprised to learn that this small city tucked away on the south coast and the sixth largest city in WA (population 34,000), was the first British settlement in the state, settled in 1826, three years before the establishment of Perth. Like the west coast, it was also explored by the Dutch in the 1600’s and repeatedly abandoned due to a lack of natural resources. A rather ironic fact considering WA is now a hotbed of iron ore, gold, diamonds, and even grains which are exported all over the world. Thirty-five minutes to the west of Albany is the town of Denmark (population 5,000) - a historic and proudly “green” town and another great spot to use as your base for exploring the area.

This region has matured insignificantly since the 1800’s, allowing its natural beauty and diverse landscape to flourish. With slightly milder temperatures and slightly more rainfall it’s a landscape much different to Perth 4.5 hours to the northwest. Add to that the roaring swell and winds of the Southern Ocean which feel as if they’ve travelled directly from Antarctica (and they have!) with marathon endurance. During our visit, temperatures struggled to reach the 25 degree mark, while in Perth we’ve experienced 23 consecutive days of 30 plus (86! F) temperatures…and counting.

The most stunning aspect of this region is the dramatic coastline characterized by rolling and at times mountainous hills, sweeping bays, and rocky cliffs. The forests to the east are home to 50 meter tingle and karri trees, some of the oldest trees on the planet. You can view life from their perspective at the Valley of the Giants Treetop walk. Dividing The Great Southern from the Wheatbelt region to the north is the Stirling Ranges whose peaks extend more than a kilometer towards the sky. And this area that was once considered infertile by Dutch explorers is now synonymous with some of WA’s most popular winemakers, local produce, and livestock.

But before the vineyards and the farmers were a part of the landscape, the Whaling industry played a significant part in the region’s framework in the cold deep waters of the Southern Ocean. In November of 1978 commercial Whaling in Australian waters came to an end and in place of Albany’s historic Whaling station sits Whale World where tourists can learn about the fascinating (and sad) history of the Whaling industry and these gentle giants.

Circular Pool - Walpole-Nornalup National Park

Conspicuous Cliffs lookout - Walpole-Nornalup NP


Greens Bay - William Bay NP

Elephant Rocks - William Bay NP

Madfish Bay - William Bay NP

Whale World - Albany

Natural Bridge - West Cape Howe NP


Natural Bridge - West Cape Howe NP

The Gap - West Cape Howe NP

Roo relaxing

Albany from high

Two People Bay - outside Albany

Stirling Ranges

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Geographe Bay


Smiths Beach - Yallingup

Last week I proposed to Shane that we get out of town and go camping over the weekend - a rather appropriate time for proposals since it was also our one year wedding anniversary. There are few spaces between Perth and Cape Leeuwin - the SW corner of Australia - that I have yet to discover but Geographe Bay was one of them.

Geographe Bay is a popular tourist destination for West Australians, conveniently located 2.5 hours south of Perth. This area is known for its beautiful sheltered beaches and is also the northern gateway to the Margaret River Wine Region. Although the bay technically starts further north, the Geographe Bay region begins with the coastal town of Busselton. From there the coastline changes direction, giving the bay a northerly aspect. Twenty-five kilometers to the west along the coast is the very small yet modern and trendy tourist town of Dunsborough. Just beyond Dunsborough the bay culminates at Cape Naturaliste which protects the calm shallow beaches of Geographe Bay. The area between Cape Naturaliste in the north and Cape Leeuwin in the south is the Margaret River Wine Region and when looking at a map, it resembles a hammer head sticking out into the Indian Ocean.

We spent our time exploring Cape Naturaliste’s surrounding coastline and the towns of Busselton and Dunsborough which together, along with the surrounding area, has a population of 26,000. In its early days, Busselton was a port city for the local timber industry. At 1.8 kilometers long, the Busselton Jetty is the longest wooden jetty in the southern hemisphere. Its astounding length compensates for the shallow waters of the bay and those that walk the 1.1 miles to the end can visit the observatory 8 meters below the surface of the water.

On the other side of the cape is Yallingup – hardly a town but home to some beautiful beach houses situated in the coast’s gentle hills. It’s in this area that Shane tried his hand at gathering up the Abalone that make their home along the rocky coastline. Abalone are large sea snails easily caught by pulling them from the rocks of coastal rock pools. Unfortunately, the only ones he found were too small to meet the strict size requirements for collecting so we left without any dinner. Our friend Andrew was also in the area last weekend so he and Shane walked through the bush, down the sloping coastline to collect “Abs”, while I waited from above with Bronson.

Eagle Bay

near Bunker Bay

view from Cape Naturaliste

view from Cape Naturaliste

near Yallingup

near Yallingup

look closely to find Shane and Andrew
searching for Abalone near Moses Rock

sunset from Busselton

sunset from Busselton
Busselton Jetty at sunset
all 1.8 kms of Busselton Jetty