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Monday, February 28, 2011

The Great Southern


Valley of the Giants - Walpole-Nornalup National Park

Flanked by ancient forests to the west, the Stirling ranges to the north, the Southern Ocean to the south, and the empty coastline of the Great Australian Bight to the east is The Great Southern region of Western Australia.

With the town of Albany as our base, we recently spent three days exploring The Great Southern. I was surprised to learn that this small city tucked away on the south coast and the sixth largest city in WA (population 34,000), was the first British settlement in the state, settled in 1826, three years before the establishment of Perth. Like the west coast, it was also explored by the Dutch in the 1600’s and repeatedly abandoned due to a lack of natural resources. A rather ironic fact considering WA is now a hotbed of iron ore, gold, diamonds, and even grains which are exported all over the world. Thirty-five minutes to the west of Albany is the town of Denmark (population 5,000) - a historic and proudly “green” town and another great spot to use as your base for exploring the area.

This region has matured insignificantly since the 1800’s, allowing its natural beauty and diverse landscape to flourish. With slightly milder temperatures and slightly more rainfall it’s a landscape much different to Perth 4.5 hours to the northwest. Add to that the roaring swell and winds of the Southern Ocean which feel as if they’ve travelled directly from Antarctica (and they have!) with marathon endurance. During our visit, temperatures struggled to reach the 25 degree mark, while in Perth we’ve experienced 23 consecutive days of 30 plus (86! F) temperatures…and counting.

The most stunning aspect of this region is the dramatic coastline characterized by rolling and at times mountainous hills, sweeping bays, and rocky cliffs. The forests to the east are home to 50 meter tingle and karri trees, some of the oldest trees on the planet. You can view life from their perspective at the Valley of the Giants Treetop walk. Dividing The Great Southern from the Wheatbelt region to the north is the Stirling Ranges whose peaks extend more than a kilometer towards the sky. And this area that was once considered infertile by Dutch explorers is now synonymous with some of WA’s most popular winemakers, local produce, and livestock.

But before the vineyards and the farmers were a part of the landscape, the Whaling industry played a significant part in the region’s framework in the cold deep waters of the Southern Ocean. In November of 1978 commercial Whaling in Australian waters came to an end and in place of Albany’s historic Whaling station sits Whale World where tourists can learn about the fascinating (and sad) history of the Whaling industry and these gentle giants.

Circular Pool - Walpole-Nornalup National Park

Conspicuous Cliffs lookout - Walpole-Nornalup NP


Greens Bay - William Bay NP

Elephant Rocks - William Bay NP

Madfish Bay - William Bay NP

Whale World - Albany

Natural Bridge - West Cape Howe NP


Natural Bridge - West Cape Howe NP

The Gap - West Cape Howe NP

Roo relaxing

Albany from high

Two People Bay - outside Albany

Stirling Ranges

Tuesday, February 8, 2011

Geographe Bay


Smiths Beach - Yallingup

Last week I proposed to Shane that we get out of town and go camping over the weekend - a rather appropriate time for proposals since it was also our one year wedding anniversary. There are few spaces between Perth and Cape Leeuwin - the SW corner of Australia - that I have yet to discover but Geographe Bay was one of them.

Geographe Bay is a popular tourist destination for West Australians, conveniently located 2.5 hours south of Perth. This area is known for its beautiful sheltered beaches and is also the northern gateway to the Margaret River Wine Region. Although the bay technically starts further north, the Geographe Bay region begins with the coastal town of Busselton. From there the coastline changes direction, giving the bay a northerly aspect. Twenty-five kilometers to the west along the coast is the very small yet modern and trendy tourist town of Dunsborough. Just beyond Dunsborough the bay culminates at Cape Naturaliste which protects the calm shallow beaches of Geographe Bay. The area between Cape Naturaliste in the north and Cape Leeuwin in the south is the Margaret River Wine Region and when looking at a map, it resembles a hammer head sticking out into the Indian Ocean.

We spent our time exploring Cape Naturaliste’s surrounding coastline and the towns of Busselton and Dunsborough which together, along with the surrounding area, has a population of 26,000. In its early days, Busselton was a port city for the local timber industry. At 1.8 kilometers long, the Busselton Jetty is the longest wooden jetty in the southern hemisphere. Its astounding length compensates for the shallow waters of the bay and those that walk the 1.1 miles to the end can visit the observatory 8 meters below the surface of the water.

On the other side of the cape is Yallingup – hardly a town but home to some beautiful beach houses situated in the coast’s gentle hills. It’s in this area that Shane tried his hand at gathering up the Abalone that make their home along the rocky coastline. Abalone are large sea snails easily caught by pulling them from the rocks of coastal rock pools. Unfortunately, the only ones he found were too small to meet the strict size requirements for collecting so we left without any dinner. Our friend Andrew was also in the area last weekend so he and Shane walked through the bush, down the sloping coastline to collect “Abs”, while I waited from above with Bronson.

Eagle Bay

near Bunker Bay

view from Cape Naturaliste

view from Cape Naturaliste

near Yallingup

near Yallingup

look closely to find Shane and Andrew
searching for Abalone near Moses Rock

sunset from Busselton

sunset from Busselton
Busselton Jetty at sunset
all 1.8 kms of Busselton Jetty