uncomplicated & unrefined: The Great Southern

Valley of the Giants - Walpole-Nornalup National Park

Flanked by ancient forests to the west, the Stirling ranges to the north, the Southern Ocean to the south, and the empty coastline of the Great Australian Bight to the east is The Great Southern region of Western Australia.

With the town of Albany as our base, we recently spent three days exploring The Great Southern. I was surprised to learn that this small city tucked away on the south coast and the sixth largest city in WA (population 34,000), was the first British settlement in the state, settled in 1826, three years before the establishment of Perth. Like the west coast, it was also explored by the Dutch in the 1600’s and repeatedly abandoned due to a lack of natural resources. A rather ironic fact considering WA is now a hotbed of iron ore, gold, diamonds, and even grains which are exported all over the world. Thirty-five minutes to the west of Albany is the town of Denmark (population 5,000) - a historic and proudly “green” town and another great spot to use as your base for exploring the area.

This region has matured insignificantly since the 1800’s, allowing its natural beauty and diverse landscape to flourish. With slightly milder temperatures and slightly more rainfall it’s a landscape much different to Perth 4.5 hours to the northwest. Add to that the roaring swell and winds of the Southern Ocean which feel as if they’ve travelled directly from Antarctica (and they have!) with marathon endurance. During our visit, temperatures struggled to reach the 25 degree mark, while in Perth we’ve experienced 23 consecutive days of 30 plus (86! F) temperatures…and counting.

The most stunning aspect of this region is the dramatic coastline characterized by rolling and at times mountainous hills, sweeping bays, and rocky cliffs. The forests to the east are home to 50 meter tingle and karri trees, some of the oldest trees on the planet. You can view life from their perspective at the Valley of the Giants Treetop walk. Dividing The Great Southern from the Wheatbelt region to the north is the Stirling Ranges whose peaks extend more than a kilometer towards the sky. And this area that was once considered infertile by Dutch explorers is now synonymous with some of WA’s most popular winemakers, local produce, and livestock.

But before the vineyards and the farmers were a part of the landscape, the Whaling industry played a significant part in the region’s framework in the cold deep waters of the Southern Ocean. In November of 1978 commercial Whaling in Australian waters came to an end and in place of Albany’s historic Whaling station sits Whale World where tourists can learn about the fascinating (and sad) history of the Whaling industry and these gentle giants.