For our first annual winter getaway we drove up the WA coast with a fishing boat, a tent, and a dog, and spent six days fishing and camping along the little known yet spectacular Ningaloo Reef in Australia’s northwest. Although the Ningaloo Reef is not as vast nor an ounce as popular as the Great Barrier Reef, it has the advantage of sitting along the coast and even holds the title as the world’s largest fringing reef. The Great Barrier Reef, as it’s appropriately named, is a barrier reef meaning it runs parallel to the coast but is separated by a deep lagoon or channel.
What’s even more enticing about the Ningaloo Reef is the isolation. If you don’t enjoy camping or at least caravanning (RVing that is) then you’ll miss out on what this incredible slice of Earth has to offer.
Our first stop was Quobba Station about a 10 hour drive north of Perth, on the southern edge of the Coral Coast. Because we departed after work, we spent our first night sleeping in our SUV on the side of the road (literally) six hours into the drive. About half way through the 1,000 km stretch between Perth and Quobba is Geraldton with a population of less than 30,000. Just before reaching Quobba you’ll pass Carnarvon with a population of 7,000 making it the second largest city on the route. Driving until you are tired and rocking up to a hotel is not an option. Neither is stopping for fuel or food always an option. You won’t get much action on this drive, unless of course you hit a kangaroo, or possibly a cow or emu.
Quobba was established as a sheep station and is a popular spot to reel in some big fish or even do some surfing. After one night we decided that the wind and treacherous waves were a bit too much for our small fishing boat and costal fishing on the cliffs should be left for more experienced fisherman. So we continued north to seek the shelter and calmer waters of the reef. In Quobba we enjoyed the beautiful jagged coastline and watched migrating Humpback Whales play in the distance. Bronson enjoyed making friends with the camping site’s pet sheep.
We then crossed the Tropic of Capricorn and made our way four hours up the coast to Exmouth, a bustling town of 2,500 on the northwest cape of Australia. Exmouth was established as a town in the 1960’s when the US and Australian governments agreed to establish a Naval communications station. Even before then it was a US Naval submarine base during World War II and was bombed by the Japanese in 1942 then abandoned three years later after a cyclone.
The US Navy has since left and it is now a tourist hub for the Ningaloo Reef, particularly during the winter months for nomad travelers and retirees. On our fourth night we headed two hours back south to Coral Bay which is home to less than 1,000 people. If you plan to explore the Ningaloo Reef, Coral Bay or Exmouth are where you’ll pitch your tent.
When you go on a holiday and you’re provided very few options to entertain yourself, you are forced into a state of relaxation. Our days consisted of beautiful 80 degree weather, no humidity, no clouds - just white sand beaches, turquoise waters, fishing, snorkeling, reading and making friends with our neighboring campers.
Camping and caravanning in these parts is truly a culture unto itself. You could even say that staying in one of the very (very) few modern accommodations is frowned upon. The sites have modern plumbing but bring along your salt water shampoo because fresh water is only at the drinking and dish washing stations and is a precious commodity in the arid northwest.
School was in session during our time “up north” so our neighbors mostly consisted of retirees caravanning around Australia or other southwest Aussies in search of some heat up the coast. On the roads we passed caravans suitably named “adventure before dementia” or “my children’s inheritance”
The remoteness of this part of the country limits the number of visitors and allows it to remain untainted with the tourism of equally beautiful beach destinations elsewhere. I fear that by the time Shane and I reach “adventure before dementia” it will be filled with resorts and home to an international airport. Already I had noticed some changes from when I last visited this area in 2000.
This winter we’ve opted for a slightly more sophisticated winter getaway, without the dog or a tent. We’ll still have a boat. Not a small tin fishing boat, but a twenty person catamaran where we’ll spend half the trip. The fishing won’t be free. We’ll have to fork over $190/person for a day’s group fishing charter and the fish we catch won’t be feeding us for dinner.
There’s definitely something to be said about the simple pleasures of self-sustainable beach camping but this year I won’t miss the dog hogging the tent or those salt water showers.
Quobba
Quobba
Emu road hazard
fishing in Coral Bay
proud fisherman
an even prouder fisherman
happiness
and relaxation
Have a fantabulous time! The photos from last year look amazing and I'm sure this year's will be equally as stunning, particularly with your new camera!
ReplyDelete