Dampier Peninsula

Cape Leveque at sunset

The final leg of our 12 day West Kimberly tour was spent at Cape Leveque on the northern point of the Dampier Peninsula. Cape Leveque is 200km north of Broome via Cape Leveque Road. The northern half of Cape Leveque Road is unpaved, allowing this area to remain untouched and available only to those willing and able to make the trip.

Since we were coming from Windjana Gorge to the east and not from Broome to west, we opted for the 160km off-road track through the Dampier Peninsula which originates outside Willare and ends near Beagle Bay 80kms south of Cape Leveque - saving us a trip back to Broome. The trade-off to the shorter driving distance was a busted tire about 50kms short of Beagle Bay. Thanks to a spare tire and a handy husband we weren’t as unfortunate as the decomposing abandoned cars we passed along the way.

The Dampier Peninsula, known as Ardi “heading north” to the native people, is home to a handful of small aboriginal communities – some of which face seclusion during the rainy season when roads are flooded. We stayed at aboriginal owned Kooljaman Camp. Kooljaman offers a range of accommodation from camping sites to palm fringed beach huts and cabins. Aside from a restaurant and some basic provisions, life at Kooljaman and Cape Leveque is self-sustainable. When we required emergency supplies, we went to the aboriginal community at One Arm Point, 15kms from Cape Leveque, and visited the community’s one-stop-shop. Also in One Arm Point is Australia’s only Trochus hatchery.

The majority of our three days in Cape Leveque was spent fishing. We caught Spanish Mackerel, Northwest Snapper, Fingermark Perch and Mangrove Jack and watched dozens of Humpback Whales make their way through the area…never a camera in hand when they surfaced of course.

The dramatic change of the tide in this area is an awesome display of the magic of the ocean. Within hours a turquoise sea would become a bed of exposed rocks and a beach as big as a football field with the ocean’s precious treasures revealed.

But one of the best parts of the Dampier Peninsula was not created by nature but by man. In 1890 Trappist Monks from France came to the Dampier Peninsula as missionaries. Ten years later, the remote lifestyle got the best of them and they departed and were replaced by the Pallottine Missionaries from Germany. The Pallottine Missionaries stayed there for another 90 years and in 1907 the Sisters of St. John of God from Ireland joined them.

While under house arrest in 1915 during World War I, the German priests and brothers and the local people began building Sacred Heart Church. Taking two years to build, Sacred Heart was molded after a photo of a German country parish - but couldn’t be further from one. Much of the detail of the church, including the alter, is made from mother of pearl, cowries, volutes and olive shells – paying tribute to the surrounding beauty of the land and heritage of the local people.

Other popular Dampier Peninsula activities include mud crabbing, aboriginal tours and helicopter rides.

Dampier Peninsula

Cape Leveque

low tide, Cape Leveque

Cape Leveque

Sacred Heart Church, Beagle Bay

Sacred Heart Church, Beagle Bay

Sacred Heart Church, Beagle Bay

Sacred Heart Church, Beagle Bay

Windjana Gorge & Tunnel Creek

Only days after passing through Port Hedland on the way home from our recent trip, the oldest evidence of life on Earth was discovered a short distance from the town of 15,000 people. As scientists from around the globe were chipping away to uncover 3.4 billion year old fossils, I was checking my phone for the first evidence of mobile reception in over five hours.

Signs of life from Earth’s younger years are hardly unusual in this part of country. In the Kimberly an 80km area called Dinosaur Trackway is the home to thousands of fossilized footprints left by at least a dozen species of dinosaurs which lived 115 to 120 million years ago - representing the largest number of footprints, the greatest diversity of dinosaur types and the best footprint preservation ever found. When you live in a state the size of Western Europe and with only 2 million inhabitants, things tend to pretty much stay the same. This can sometimes be a bad thing. But when it comes to revealing Mother Earth’s secrets, it’s a good thing.

While we didn’t go chasing dinosaur footprints in the Kimberly, we did get in touch with primitive life in Windjana Gorge. Windjana Gorge sits along Australia’s famous Gibb River Road – an unpaved stretch of road through the Kimberly that is only accessible during the dry season.

Following four days in Broome we spent two nights at Windjana Gorge National Park, about 4.5 hours southeast of Broome and 1.5 hours southeast of Derby where the Gibb River Road begins.

Windjana Gorge was once a 375 million year old Devonian Reef from when this part of the world was under water. The 100 meter high walls of the 3.5km long gorge, which shoot up abruptly from the land, are an impressive site. The Lennard River carves its way through the reef which today is known as the Napier Range.

There’s something quite peaceful and romantic about swimming in an ancient gorge, and I’m sure the freshwater crocodiles that call it home would agree. When hiking the 7km return trail through the gorge you will see dozens of crocodiles basking in the sun along the banks. “Freshies” are the smaller, somewhat harmless relative of the saltwater crocodile but visitors are still advised not to swim in the gorge. Shane, along with another male group of tourists, succumbed to the heat and swam with the crocodiles but I cooled off with a shower back at the camp site. Freshwater showers and flushing toilettes are available at Windjana Gorge but we had to bring a generator to power our camping fridge.

An hour further down the Gibb River Road is Tunnel Creek, Western Australia’s oldest cave system. Visitors can walk through the 750 meter cave if willing to wade through water which at some points comes up to your knees. We came rather unprepared. Shane left his running shoes back at the camp site and had to navigate through the cave in flip flops and our headlamp had a flat battery which left us with only a small handheld torch (flashlight that is). When you’re Ill-equipped, wading through water in a dark cave filled with bats and snakes is a bit daunting so we only made it half way through the 750 meters.

Windjana Gorge was definitely worth driving 140km on an unpaved road, but after two days without the option of picking up an ice cream or even bottled water from the store, we were ready to move along to our next destination – Cape Leveque on the Dampier Peninsula.

Boab Prison Tree, Derby

Gibb River Road

Windjana Gorge

camping, Windjana Gorge National Park

Windjana Gorge

Windjana Gorge

swimming, Windjana Gorge

fossil, Windjana Gorge

hiking Windjana Gorge

sunset, Gibb River Road

Freshwater Crocodile, Windjana Gorge



Tunnel Creek



Tunnel Creek

Broome

Camel, Cable Beach

Broome, on the north coast of WA, is one of the state’s most popular and renowned tourist destinations. We recently spent four nights in Broome as part of a 12 day West Kimberly trip. If you’ve seen the movie Australia or watched Oprah’s Australian adventure, then you’ve seen images of the Kimberly region.

This town of less than 15,000 permanent residents is a 2.5 hour flight from Perth or a 2,200 km (1370 mile) drive. We took a fishing boat with us so endured the 22 hour drive from Perth to Broome along the Great Northern Highway which takes you through WA’s Wheat belt, then into the Midwest known for its springtime wildflowers, and finally the Pilbara – the heart of the state’s mining industry. With very little to see beyond dotted grain silos and distant mine sites, you appreciate the isolation and beauty of the landscape but begin to wonder why the hell you didn’t opt for the much quicker (and possibly cheaper) plane flight.

A great many hours on the Great Northern Highway elicits great conversations such as why does Australia have so many greats: the Great Australian Bight, the Great Barrier Reef, the Great Ocean Road, the Great Sandy Desert. Food and accommodation on the drive consists mostly of Roadhouse chips and short sleeps in the back of your 4WD.  So after some time it’s only natural to want to strangle your travel companion – especially when they run out of fuel on the exit ramp by your house after travelling 6,500 kms in 12 days and nearly 48 hours with no shower. Clearly all that driving led to a miscalculation of fuel consumption.

While Perth in the south gets 85% of its rain in the winter (June-August), Broome in the north has a tropical climate with a rainy season during the summer. This makes it a popular tourist destination from May to September when it’s dry and hot in the north but cool and rainy in the southern half of the country. This is also why it’s recommended to visit the Great Barrier Reef during Australia’s winter – if you go during summer you’ll be disappointed with rain and sometimes lots of it.

Broome is most famous for three things: the spectacular Cable Beach, its world famous South Sea Pearls and colorful pearling history, and for camel rides on the beach.

Cable Beach is a 22km stretch of white sand and turquoise waters and with a 9 meter tide that still leaves plenty of room to stretch your legs at its height, the beach feels nearly as wide as it is long. It’s also home to Broome’s popular camel rides and is one of Australia’s most famous nudist beaches. It’s a driving beach so even during the busy tourist season you can always find a private spot somewhere along its 22km stretch to park your car and get rid of those tan lines.

Camels were first brought to Australia in the mid-1800’s as a means of traveling across the arid continent and today over 1 million feral camels reside mostly in central Australia, in the Northern Territory. Bully the camel from Ships of the Desert camel tours took Shane and I on a 40 minute stroll along Cable Beach. We learned that all the camels are brought in from the wild and tamed within six months and were surprised to hear that they drink 22 liters of water a day, although can survive on significantly less.

When Oprah surprised her lucky guests with Pearls they were South Sea Pearls from Broome. We took a two hour pearl farm tour at Willie Creek Pearl Farm where we learned about how pearls are cultured and valued. To learn a bit about the dangerous and fascinating pearling history which began 150 years ago, you can also take the Pearl Luggers tour.

We could have easily spent a couple more days in Broome. We missed out on the 130 million year old dinosaur fossil and although this time we stayed at the Palm Grove Caravan Park I could easily be persuaded to stay at one of Broome’s luxury resorts. Next time we’ll fly.

Cable Beach

Cable Beach

Camels, Cable Beach

Camels, Cable Beach

Camels, Cable Beach

Red Dirt, Broome

Mother of Pearl, Oyster Shell

Oyster (with small brown crab living in top left corner of shell)

Willie Creek Pearl Farm

Cable Beach

Melbourne

FINALLY. We made it to Melbourne. This was my first, and a long awaited trip to Melbourne (Mel-bin),Victoria. The second largest city in Australia is a cultural and artistic melting pot known for good shopping, even better food, Australian Rules Football, and cold weather (by Aussie standards at least - which doesn't mean much if you’re from say, Minnesota or Sweden).

Simply stated - if Sydney is LA, then Melbourne is NYC.

Shane and I had an agreement that we’d visit Melbourne during the Australian Rules Football season which typically runs from April through September. The MCG (Melbourne Cricket Ground) is like the Fenway Park of Australia so it’s difficult to visit Melbourne without watching a “footy” or Cricket game at the MCG.

Aussie Rules Football originated in the state of Victoria and today ten of the seventeen professional AFL teams reside in the second most populous state. A map of Melbourne reads like an AFL league roster – Richmond, Collingwood, St. Kilda, Carlton, and the list goes on. Prior to going to Melbourne I could recite some of its most popular areas without even realizing it – just from watching the weekend footy. To me, the thought of ten professional teams residing in one city is suicidal. I lived in Chicago for five years, and the tension between Cubs and White Sox fans was enough to send you packing for St. Louis. Point is - if you don’t like footy, or at least respect it, you might as well leave Victoria.

As we roamed the city streets, it was endearing to see people walking around wearing their team’s scarf; making their way to one of many footy games taking place over the weekend. My father-in-law played for what used to be the Fitzroy Lions in Victoria and is now the Brisbane Lions in Queensland and my brother-in-law played for the West Coast Eagles in Perth - so it’s a requirement to at least tolerate footy if you’re going to be in this family. My husband’s footy career essentially ended when he moved to the US and fell in love with me...and the idea of travelling. I suppose I can’t take all the credit.

Aside from taking in an AFL game at the MCG on Saturday night, our four day trip to Melbourne was spent shopping, eating, and exploring the city streets. A view of Melbourne’s iconic Federation Square and a stroll down its famous café and boutique strewn laneways are a must. We also spent some quality time in the popular beachside neighborhood of St. Kilda filled with trendy restaurants, historic buildings, and some eclectic shopping. But, our favorite stop was the Queen Victoria Market – the largest open air market in the Southern Hemisphere. We were mesmerized by the plethora of fresh meat and produce and variety of cultural fare. A vast array of clothing and other goods completes this massive market place. Although I wasn’t thrilled to be headed to Melbourne during the coldest time of year, I was reminded of home when walking the streets with the crunch of fall leaves below my feet - something we don’t get much of in WA.

We stayed at the The Blackman Hotel, perfectly situated between the Central Business District (CBD) and St. Kilda. The Blackman Hotel is a part of Melbourne’s Art Series Hotels which each feature the work of a prominent Australian Artist – showcasing Melbourne’s love for the arts. With ocean and park views from our beautifully appointed room- for only $170/night it was one of the best value hotels I’ve ever stayed at.

If you solicit a list of Melbourne restaurant recommendations, you’ll get more than you bargained for. We settled on Golden Fields; Circa, the Prince; Movida Aqui; and Las Chicas for breakfast with a childhood friend I hadn’t seen in twenty years who is living in Melbourne with her husband. What would an expat do without Facebook.

Although we easily could have entertained ourselves for a couple more days in Melbourne there is also plenty to do outside the city including: watch wild penguins on Phillip Island, drink wine in the Yarra Valley, or drive for hours along Australia’s famous Great Ocean Road. We’ll save these activities for the warmer months of the year.

Flinders Street Station and a Melbourne tram

Federation Square

Yarra River

Carlton Botanical Gardens

Carlton Botanical Gardens

CBD laneway art

an allotment garden in St. Kilda

St. Kilda Pier

Serpentine National Park

When I left Colorado, I left with it my hiking boots and other remnants of mountain living. Never did I imagine I’d need them in Perth where flips flops (or even your bare feet) are the favored footwear.

As it turns out, they may have come in handy.  Sitting quietly in the shadow of Perth’s spectacular beaches, an hour east of Perth, lays the Darling Range or Perth Hills as they are more commonly called. Their low-profile provides a quieter way of life nestled in the trees where kangaroos trim your lawns and charming antique shops and bed and breakfasts are dotted along the way.

Friday saw our first real rainfall in several months – washing away the dry heat of a Perth summer and ringing in a beautiful autumn weekend. Yesterday was the perfect day for a hike. Thanks to some assistance from toptrails.com.au we decided upon Kitty’s Gorge in Serpentine National Park, 45 minutes southeast of Perth in "the Hills".

Kitty's Gorge is a 14km round trip hike originating in the historic town of Jarrahdale (named after the Jarrah tree) and ending at Serpentine Falls which is open to the public (at $11) for some good old fashioned waterhole swimming.

Kitty’s Gorge follows the Gooralong Brook which is mostly dry this time of year but I imagine quite beautiful in the spring after the winter rain. We walked through a forest filled with tall lanky Jarrah trees, big bushy grass trees, ferns, palms, and Marri trees - a member of the eucalypt family whose fruit is referred to as “honky nuts”. I like to think of it as the acorn of WA. We also encountered a pine forest which is not native to the area. Pine forests are often planted for the use of their wood. This group of trees would have been plated years before it became a national park and is now a part of the scenery.

Noisy black Cockatoos and a few cheeky Kangaroos entertained us along the way. White Cockatoos and pink and grey Cockatoos are common (pests actually) in Perth but these were my first black Cockatoos.

We wrapped things up with lunch at the Jarrahdale General Store where I rated the best BLT in Perth. I was so excited about it that I finished it off with scones with jam and cream and destroyed any benefit gained from my long hike.

Kitty's Gorge - Serpentine NP

grass tree

Serpentine NP

"Honky nuts"

Marri Tree

fern

planted pine forest

field of clovers

black Cockatoo - can you see the red in his tail?

Serpentine NP



Serpentine Falls



Kitty's Gorge

a native Holly